If you’ve found this article, you’ve probably heard of the Azores. A simply stunning set of islands which are part of Portugal and sit somewhere in the Atlantic between Europe and America. If you’re into hiking, local food and incredible views, you should definitely visit.
We found it wasn’t the easiest place to find information about – great for exploring but sometimes a little guidance is handy. To help get you started, here are a few tips and recommendations.
Top 3 tips:
- Try the local produce
The Azores came across as a very proud, independent set of islands, and rightly so. The supermarkets were stocked with lots of local and fresh products; cheeses, cured meats, seafood, wine and more.If you like passionfruit, try Kima which is a lightly fizzing soft drink that we haven’t found anywhere else since. I also recommend getting some fish stew/ soup at some point. - Check the weather cams
On the flight over, a lovely lady sat next to me recommended that we bookmark the Azores webcam page for the weather. It was incredibly good advice. Although we were blessed with very good weather, there was one day where the weather was poor. As advised we checked the weather cam and the weather on the other side of the island, literally 10 minutes drive away, was beautiful. I couldn’t quite believe it.
- Take your time
We did a week and split our time between Sao Miguel & Sao Jorge. I wish we’d had longer on Sao Miguel although I think we did have enough time on Jorge (3 days). We’ll definitely be heading back. Taking your time doesn’t just mean your overall time on each island, however. Wherever you end up on your trip, check Google maps and see if there might be something hidden around the corner. Because of the landscape of the Azores you literally never know what gem is 5 minutes away. For us this was Lagoa do Fogo which we discovered purely by chance and is a beautiful site.
Sao Miguel
Where to stay
While the obvious place to set up camp is Ponta Delgada, and we did two nights there, we absolutely loved Ribeira Grande. It’s on the other side of the island, maybe 45 minutes to an hour by bus (30 minutes by car).
Ponta Delgada → the main hub on Sao Miguel, there’s lots of beautiful buildings and great spots for food and drink. Since the international airport is here it’s a great start or end point to your trip. We started here and it gave us a good feel for The Azores before we ventured further afield.
Ribeira Grande → this small town boasts a black sand beach and a friendly local vibe. It’s not very touristy so if you’re like us and don’t speak Portuguese you’ll need to be adept with Google Translate and non-verbal comms!
We used AirBnB to book our accommodation but there’s plenty of options.
What/ where to eat
- Azorean fish stew!
Many places will have this however the first one I had was the best, and I was obsessed for the rest of the trip. I’m pretty sure it was from Mercado Do Peixe in Ponta Delgada but I can’t be 100% sure – you’ll just have to try a few out.. - TukáTulá Beach Bar – head to the beach near Ribeira (Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara) and you’ll find this little beach bar/ restaurant. There’s a lot of seafood on the menu, but there are other options too if you’re not a fish fan. If you’re not in town for long, I’d suggest booking just to be safe, particularly if you want a prime table.
- O Correia – this traditional little haunt did an amazing octopus stew, as well as the classic Azorean dishes. It was inexpensive and welcoming, just what we were looking for. You can also tumble through into the bustling bar area after you’ve eaten too for a drink with the locals.
What to do
- Caldeira Velha hot baths
I can only describe this as a tropical paradise, and the pictures don’t do it justice. We walked up the hill from Ribeira Grande however the walk wasn’t the best so I’d recommend getting a cab or driving up. After the baths, carry on up the hill for 10 minutes to get a view over Lago do Fogo - Lago das Setes Cidades
You will have seen the pictures and it really is beautiful. We took the public bus down from Ponta Delgada to Setes Cidades town and did a walk up around the lakes for about 2 hours. Take a picnic to make the most of the scenery. - Tea plantations
We didn’t do this ourselves but have heard it’s very good hence mentioning on here.
How to get around
We used public transport to get around on Sao Miguel, catching one taxi back from Caldeira Velha to Ribeira Grande. The buses aren’t very regular but we found them to be reliable.
Sao Jorge
Where to stay
We stayed in Calheta, on the Pico side of the island, in a lovely old AirBnB. The island is quite small; you can drive the length of the island in just over an hour, and across it in 20 minutes.
What/ where to eat
Our favourite meal was the garlic limpets and bottle of Azorean wine which we had at Sabores Sopranos. If they offer you the liqueur with the bill, definitely try it. To this day, we haven’t a clue about what it is, but it’s excellent. Despite not speaking any Portuguese we felt like part of the gang here.
If you’re into cheese and wine, I’d highly recommend picking up a selection of cheese and a bottle of pico wine (the supermarkets had a surprisingly good range), and having a picnic with the sunset overlooking Pico. If you’re staying in Calheta you’ll find plenty of good spots.
What to do
Sao Jorge for us was all about exploring and enjoying what was around us. There aren’t heaps of touristy activities to do so it’s up to you to make what you wil of it. It’s truly beautiful and very tranquil.
- Go exploring
By far our favourite thing to do was to hike – we went for some great walks, the views are next level and it’s so peaceful. All Trails has some trails on but we found most through Google Maps. Trilho das Fontes and exploring small roads up the hills between the fields was a fun afternoon - Visit the Simão Dias pools
We hopped off the bus at Norte Grande and walked down the hill to Cais da Fajã do Ouvidor. From here you can find a little path to the hidden pools of Simão Dias. The water was too rough for us to swim but there were plenty of small pools to paddle in and it’s worth it just for the walk. - Watch the sunset over pico
Ideally with some cheese and wine, or head to Calhetense Beach Bar
How to get around
We stayed in Calheta. We took a taxi when we first arrived but thereafter used public transport; although limited, the buses came as planned so as long as you plan it’s certainly possible.
One thing we couldn’t find was a bus timetable. When we visited the public bus timetable to go around the North side of Sao Jorge had stops at:
- Calheta – 08.30
- Norte Pequeno – 08.45
- Norte Grande – 08.55
- Santo Antonio – 09.05
- Beira – 09.15
The timetable here is from 2014 but was still correct when we visited in 2021. That said, all the stops past Calheta appeared to be slightly later or earlier than the schedule said so get there 5 minutes before and be prepared to wait for 15 minutes or so.
What we’d go back for
- Pico! High on my list of places to go is the island of Pico. You can hike up the volcano and visit the vineyards, and it looks like a really incredible place
- Tea plantations – as mentioned I heard great things but we didn’t have the chance to make it here. These are on Sao Miguel
- Surfing at Santa Barbara near Ribeira Grande – if you like your surf, this looked like a great spot for it. Significantly quieter than surfing on any of the major beaches in Europe or Australia too! There’s a surf school giving lessons for newbies or to get yourself familiar with the conditions.
Questions we had before going..
Is a week in the Azores enough?
A week is enough to give you a feel for the Azores, and to see one or two islands. You certainly won’t see everything but you’ll have an amazing time. A week on Sao Miguel alone would give you plenty to do.
Which are the best islands to visit in the Azores?
If it’s your first trip, Sao Miguel is a great starting point. Sao Jorge is very different to Sao Miguel so if you’d like to visit two islands this is a good combination.
There’s a ferry route between Pico, Sao Jorge & Faial.
Do I need to hire a car in the Azores?
Having a car is definitely an advantage however it is possible to manage without it. On our trip we did not hire a car and used a combination of public transport and the odd taxi to get around Sao Jorge & Sao Miguel.
Can you walk from Sao Miguel airport to Ponta Delgada?
Yes, it’s possible to walk from Ponta Delgada airport to Ponta Delgada city. It takes around 45 minutes to walk and there’s lots of little bars/ cafes on the way for a snack or drink.
Can you explore the Azores if you don’t speak Portuguese?
Yes you can. Although English is not widely spoken, you can certainly get by without speaking Portuguese as enough of the locals do speak English.
How do I travel between the islands in the Azores?
While there is a ferry between certain islands (Atlantico Line has the details), for the most part you’ll need to hop on an inter-island flight. This is particularly true from Sao Miguel since it sits out on its own. The inter-island flights are short and are run by Sata Airways – we recommend booking in advance.
We’d consider ourselves good flyers however the planes that loop between the islands are small so be prepared for a bumpy flight. The pilots and crew are awesome though so don’t fret it.
When should I visit the Azores?
The Azores have a very temperate climate, not ever getting truly cold or roasting hot. Its highs and lows stay between 12 and 26 degrees celsius year round.
We visited in September and the weather was perfect for exploring – not too hot, but certainly not cold. I’d recommend going around this time but I’ve also had recommendations for going in May too because of the wildlife. Because of where the Azores are, the weather can change quickly so do check out the weather cams.