We visited South Korea in September 2023, spending 5 days in Seoul and 2 days in Gyeongju. I’d visited Korea, specifically Seoul, once before for a few days and loved it. I was therefore a little concerned that I’d overhyped it in my head. Not at all. It was even better than I’d remembered. It’s hard to put a finger on exactly why Seoul is so great – a combination of the vibe, the food and the culture perhaps – but it’s so worth a visit.
Getting around
Google Maps unfortunately didn’t work very well for us in South Korea – refusing quite often to show walking routes – so we instead used Naver and KakoaMap. This worked for public transport as well as walking routes and places too.
What to eat and where
- Bibimbap – this is best at one of the markets. We stumbled across a market with four or five stalls and were rewarded with a delicious feast prepared by two ladies. GO hungry as you’ll be filled to the brim with side dishes too!
- Bulgogi – one of my favourite Korean dishes and for good reason. I love bulgogi beef with glass noodles which comes in a sort of soup.
- Korean Fried Chicken – get it at Sin Hanguk Tongdak Nagwon. This is a very local place so don’t expect them to speak any English but it’s brilliant and you’ll soon catch on. The chicken isn’t battered, it’s just chucked into the oil and the skin crisps up beautifully. Order some chicken and beer, and you’re set. We also accidentally ended up ordering tater tots – apparently called Ugly Potatoes – which (unsurprisingly) taste the same in Seoul as they do in Sydney, London, or NYC.
- Hand Cut Noodles – you may have seen the Netflix show about the food markets in Seoul. This inspired our trip to Gwangjang Market, but there were lots of great stalls and we ended up having a lovely lunch at another spot.
- Korean Steak Tartare – I hadn’t expected to go in search of Steak Tartare but it was recommended to us, and we found a great spot in the Gwangjang Market. It’s seasoned with sesame and is absolutely delicious.
- Iced coffee – there’s a massive coffee culture in Korea so definitely hop on that wagon and pick up an iced coffee one day.
Top things to do
The Korean War Museum
I will admit this was not on my list. I’d say I have an interest in history but not a love for it. My partner was keen to go though and so off we went, and I’m glad we did. It was really well put together and thought-provoking. I’d recommend setting aside two hours to visit (I have a short attention span and maybe managed 90 minutes which is very good for me).
National Museum of Korean Contemporary History
Korea has an amazingly vibrant culture. I loved this museum, it really took you on a journey and helped me to understand how important the cultural evolution in South Korea was – and how important this has been to the economy of Korea too.
Changgyeonggung Palace in the evening
All the palaces are beautiful but I’ve picked out my two favourites. This one is the smallest of Seoul’s palaces and it’s a thing of magic in the evening. The palace is open after dark, unlike the others, and it’s truly a haven in among the busy city. I’d recommend leaving around an hour to explore, ideally at dusk. There was a string quartet playing a concert outside the walls when we were there and that made it even more special.
Changdeokgung Palace and Secret Garden
Changdeokgung Palace is beautiful in its own right but the secret garden (Huwon) is worth the admission alone. There’s a limited number of tickets per day, with hourly entry, but we were able to buy ours on the day for the next entry time. Explore the palace while you wait and then get lost in the garden’s many paths, winding around ponds and beautiful plants.
Baseball!
Pre-warning that getting tickets is a mission (read this guide) but it’s so worth it, even if you’re not a sports fan. We went to Jamsil Stadium to watch the Busan Bears play and the atmosphere was nothing short of electric. It was a full house, despite it being a random Wesneday, and so much fun.
FAQs
Should I visit the DMZ?
If you have a day spare then it’s not a bad trip however if you’re only spending a week in Korea, I personally would give it a miss. Yes, you’ll get to take a cool picture and say you’ve been there but we found the experience underwhelming. Don’t get me wrong, there are interesting parts, I just believe there are significantly more interesting things to do.
Is public transport good?
Yes! But getting a card was a mission for us. We managed to get ours at a 7-eleven in the end after the machines were not proving to be our friend. You can get the train into the city (paying for a ticket by cash) and then get a pass at the 7-Eleven in the main Seoul station (or probably nearby too).