Having grown up inland, the ocean has always held a real sense of wonder for me. I love swimming, snorkelling and the odd surf — it’s all a bit magical. Whale migration season in Sydney is another favourite. I hadn’t a clue this was even a thing until I once Googled what to do on a winter weekend — and it’s since become a tradition for us to pack a picnic and head out for some whale watching.
This post is about whale watching from shore — the budget-friendly option! All you need is an Opal/contactless card for the bus (or access to a car) and some snacks.
We’ve tried a few different spots over the years, and this one is our favourite. The whales are reliable, it’s not too busy, and it’s a beautiful spot to boot.
We have a few places in the same area, but our two favourite spots are up on the cliffs (not literally!) of Cape Banks and down on the flats between Cape Banks and Henry’s Head. We were lucky enough to have a whale go the wrong way here once and come up crazily close. In general, the cliffs are a better vantage point. You can usually see the whales well without binoculars, but they are helpful if you have them.
How to get there
Take the 390X bus and jump off at Botany Bay National Park, Anzac Parade (the last stop before La Perouse). From here, walk about 50m in the same direction the bus just went (towards La Perouse) and you should see a little bridge with a sign into the bushes on your left. Follow the signs into the park along the Cape Banks / Henry’s Head Track.
This map on AllTrails is a loop of the route: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/australia/new-south-wales/cape-banks-via-la-perouse
I’d recommend going anti-clockwise and skipping the La Perouse part. You can also do it as an out and back — you’re not missing anything by doing so, as the Henry’s Head side is nicer in my opinion.
When to go
You can see whales from May to October from experience. We used to live in Bondi and saw them off the coast there periodically through that period. Peak weekends are usually the last weekend in June and first weekend in July — that’s what we typically lock into our diaries.
Pick a nice day if you can. You’ll want to spend some time out there and it’s nowhere near as enjoyable without those crystal blue winter skies and sunshine.
How do I see the whales?
Look for the sprays of water (from the whales’ blowholes) — that’s the easiest thing to spot. From there you’ll be able to see them surfacing. As with all nature, it’s hit and miss what you see, but I’ve never been up this way in season and not seen a whale (or fifty).
Sometimes we’ll see massive breaches or tail slaps — it simply depends. However, you will usually be at a distance. If you want to get up close, I’d recommend jumping on a whale watching tour.
Photos
As it transpires, I have two photos of the track but none of the whales. In general, you won’t get good photos as they are out at sea — so if you’re looking for an Instagram shot with a whale, this isn’t the one for you I’m afraid.
It is, however, a stunning area and watching the whales brings a little bit of magic.