Having heard so much about Milford Sound, that was always on our list for South Island NZ. However, while doing some research on the best cruise to do, I discovered Doubtful Sound, the far less well-known ‘sibling’ near Manapouri. Thank goodness we did.
I don’t want to get your hopes too high so all I will say in terms of my general feeling is, if you have the chance, definitely go.
We went with Real NZ. At the time of writing they’re the only provider, partly because it’s a bit of a mission to get over to Doubtful Sound but they have the logistics to a tee and I can genuinely say we loved it all.
What’s the layout of the day?
We headed to the jetty around 7am and were on board and on our way at 7.30. The first leg is a boat across Lake Manapouri and lasts around an hour from memory. This alone was lovely. If you can, get in the queue early and grab an inside window seat upstairs as it will be chilly first off. You can walk around though so it doesn’t really matter.
After the boat you’re transferred to a bus. I know some people aren’t a fan of buses but this was quite special – we were blessed with a stunning day and as we came up to the high point, the clouds started to clear and we got a stunning first glimpse of Doubtful Sound.
From here we boarded the main boat which we crossed up and down Doubtful on. The sound is long and narrow but you can make it all the way to the mouth of the Sea
One of my favourite bits was them taking us to one side and killing the engine. Everyone on board was instructed to be still and quiet, and simply be there and take it in. Now I write this. It sounds a little mad but it was amazing. There was no sound at all. This is something they can’t always do due to conditions, but which would not be possible at Milford.
The return journey is the bus then boat again, arriving back mid afternoon. I will shut to falling asleep but enjoying the parts I was awake for.
Where to stay?
We stayed at Possum Lodge in Manapouri which was super convenient. We walked 10 minutes from our cabins to the boat in the morning and back after – you can cut through the wood on the shoreline and it’s really quite lovely. It also meant we could spend a little longer in bed which, given we did this on New Year’s Day, was quite welcome.
Is it worth the cost?
Yes. It’s more expensive than the Milford Day cruises but more exclusive and a longer duration too.
Should I do the early morning, or slightly later cruise?
I’d recommend early morning. This is personal preference- I am a morning person- but I feel there is usually more wildlife and often the water is calmer too. I firmly believe that both would be great, but I can only vouch for the morning.
What wildlife will I see?
With nature, it’s impossible to know but we saw albatross, dolphins, fur seals, and other birds I’m afraid I can’t identify.
To overnight or day trip?
We did the day trip and I cannot recommend it enough. However, would I also like to try it overnight? 100%.
The overnight cruise is very expensive but I reckon it would be worth the cost. I spoke to one person who did it and they loved it.
Is Doubtful Sound or Milford Sound better?
It really depends on what you’re looking for. I wanted natural beauty without too much hassle and hustle so for me, it’s Doubtful Sound every time. We were essentially the only boat on the water.
At Milford, it’s a lot busier. Lots of boats and the constant buzz of planes overhead too. Beautiful, absolutely. But no way near as tranquil as Doubtful.
We kayaked on Milford Sound to make it a bit different and that was really fun. If I was only able to have done one looking back it would be Doubtful every time.
Will it rain?
Honestly? Probably! We were so lucky to have a clear day. However, given it rains in Fjordlands over 300 days a year (according to one of the guides), chances are you’re going to see some rain.
What do I need to take?
We took lots of layers and rain coats, a big flask of tea and a very bougie picnic (it was new year’s Day after all!). You can buy things on board and while it did look good I was very happy with our choices.
Everywhere in Fjordlands you’ll also need good insect repellent for any exposed flesh. The sandflies are wee devils.
Extra tip: Go to The Church in Manapouri for a drink.