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The Tongariro Crossing

The Tongariro Crossing is my favourite one day hike. It’s beautiful, a little challenging in places but more than worth the effort. I purposefully haven’t included too many photos as it’s better in person and I don’t want to spoil the surprise.

How fit do I need to be?

The walk is around 20km and does have a fair amount of elevation gain so a reasonable level of fitness is required. You’re looking at around 4-6 hours of moderate effort so if you’re a regular walker or runner, you’ll be absolutely grand.

My mother who is in her mid sixties rocked the walk last year and, although she does a fair bit of hiking, she’s not wildly fit (as she will attest to herself). She said her hiking poles were a massive help.

The hardest part I would say is the descent down to Emerald Lakes as it’s volcanic sand and you do sink as you go.

What kit do I need?

Quick note that we did the Crossing in February so I am writing from a Summer perspective.

I would personally say normal activewear with shoes with a good tread will suffice. The weather can change rapidly though so take layers with you and, even if it looks beautiful, a good rain coat. I hiked in shorts, a tee and a thin midlayer but had tracksuit bottoms, fleeces and waterproofs with me. The wind can get up so I did use my buff. I wore my hiking boots which have a solid vibram sole, but someone we passed was wearing Vans (I wouldn’t recommend this – it didn’t look enjoyable!).

As you’d expect there is no food or drink on the trail so take plenty, and suncream/ lipbalm too.

As above, Mum mentioned her hiking poles were a huge help for her.

Emerald Lakes

How do I get there?

My top tip for doing the Tongariro is to drive up the day before and stay at the Skotel. This is my favourite hostel/ hotel worldwide (and I don’t say this lightly). We stayed in the backpackers and it is well equipped and the most stunning location. Sitting out on the kitchen balcony having dinner the night before was amazing, and beer in the hotel bar afterwards was perhaps even better! If you’re a Lord Of The Rings fan you’ll be very happy as you’re in Mordor and can even see Mount Doom.

From the Skotel they run a bus to the start of the walk and, unlike the buses coming in from Taupo, it’s only about a 40 minute drive. There’s two or three buses back, and you don’t need to book a specific time letting you go at your own pace. The shuttles are run by Summit Shuttles and cost around 50NZD per person. We booked the day before by emailing the Skotel but you can now book directly on Summit Shuttles by the looks of things.

If you don’t have a car, staying at the Skotel is a bit tricky so I’d recommend the bus from Taupo.

The walk

The walk is a point to point walk. It’s very well marked and, when conditions are good, it would be hard to get lost. The terrain you cross is the most varied I have seen in a one day hike to date which is part of what I loved. From the Emerland Lakes surrounded by Black Sand to the more traditional alpine landscape, it’s quite stunning.

Even though it’s well marked, I would look at the route in advance and follow along on All Trails or a similar app. I have the free version of All Trails and, as long as you start when you have a signal, you should be able to follow along the route.

Map of the crossing

How long does it take?

On average I believe it takes around 6 hours. We had a bit of a panic when we read it would take 8 hours so we gunned the start, and then realised we were being silly and slowed down significantly. We were through in just over 4 hours with stops. When I do it again (which I will!) I will be going a bit more leisurely to really take it all in.

Can I walk it with a baby carrier?

The reason I add this is because my brother-in-law asked us about it. I would personally say no, I wouldn’t recommend it. Quite a few people slipped over on the section to Emerald Lakes as an example so I wouldn’t personally be taking a wee one.

What time of year should I do it?
We went in February and were lukcy to have near perfect conditions, beside a little wind. I’ve since sent my Mother and a friend who went in January and February respectively and both were luck to get stunning days. The Summer is my recommendation unless you’re a hardy hiker. In Winter you will, as I understand, would need special gear and lots of experience.

Final thoughts
If you’re considering the walk and have a reasonable level of fitness I would say do it. However, it is important to know your own limits and be prepared. It is an active volcanic region – there was eruption in 2012 – so you really do have to be mindful of that and being prepared certainly helps.

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